Dungeon Redux

[JPQuinn]

In 2009 I made this very simple, basic map and posted it here:



I have never been happy with how it turned out and have tinkered and played with it for years. Always trying something new and nothing has seemed to meet even this basic map's quality. Until recently...

Around Christmas this last year, my wife got me Photoshop CC 2014 and a Wacom tablet. I have practiced with both and have even found a few Photoshop styles and patterns (thank you DrZeuss) that remind me of the 4e/5e DnD map style. So, I have vowed to get this map redone in that style.

Here's Step 1 - Redrew the map to a new scale (1 box = 5'), using layers and patterns (4 layers in this step: base color, floor pattern, grid, and wall pattern), and at a lower dpi (72px/inch vs 150px/inch in the original)

[madcowchef]

Good start, clean and clear. I would suggest finding a seamless pattern for the background and using either the pattern fill (edit->fill and then chose pattern), or pattern overlay (Fx on your layer tab). CGTexture has a lot of seamless (aka tiled) textures that would probably suite you needs.

[JPQuinn]

Good start, clean and clear. I would suggest finding a seamless pattern for the background and using either the pattern fill (edit->fill and then chose pattern), or pattern overlay (Fx on your layer tab). CGTexture has a lot of seamless (aka tiled) textures that would probably suite you needs.

Thanks, madcowchef When I apply the layer style to the wall layer in step 2 (see below), it gets rid of the pattern clipping from step 1. Thanks for the great resource too! I will definitely have to pick some new textures.

Step 2: Applied the layer style (bevel, inner/outer glow, stroke, drop shadow, and a pattern overlay) and inserted the doors into a new layer group.

[Bogie]

Nice maps JP.
My only issue is dropping the resolution to 72, I seldom go below 100. While I understand that some VTTs are set up for 72, others work best at 100 and if you tried to print this at 1 square = 1 inch it is going to lose a lot of quality.

Still it is a very nice map, I like the layout of the rooms, I have a bad tendency to be to square / symmetrical with my floor-plans so I like the way yours is set up.

[JPQuinn]

Nice maps JP.
My only issue is dropping the resolution to 72, I seldom go below 100. While I understand that some VTTs are set up for 72, others work best at 100 and if you tried to print this at 1 square = 1 inch it is going to lose a lot of quality.

Still it is a very nice map, I like the layout of the rooms, I have a bad tendency to be to square / symmetrical with my floor-plans so I like the way yours is set up.

Thanks for the praise, Bogie Normally, I do my maps in 150 to 300. But, the low resolution almost gives the map a colored pencil quality. Though you're right, I wouldn't use this for a VTT or battlemap, but perhaps as a full length map in a PDF. I might do a higher res 1" = 5' type battlemap in the future.


On to Step 3: Elevations. Here I added stairs and a number of elevations. Though, I'm having issues with the shading coming out too dark. If anyone has any tips or tricks here, please let me know.

[madcowchef]

Well aside from the obvious lowering the opacity for you shadows, you can also use a tinted color (slightly orange black to indicate most of the ambient light will be fire light for instance) and set layer style to multiply which will lighten your shadows and give a help give it a less daylight look.

[Neyjour]

Thanks for the praise, Bogie Normally, I do my maps in 150 to 300. But, the low resolution almost gives the map a colored pencil quality. Though you're right, I wouldn't use this for a VTT or battlemap, but perhaps as a full length map in a PDF. I might do a higher res 1" = 5' type battlemap in the future.


On to Step 3: Elevations. Here I added stairs and a number of elevations. Though, I'm having issues with the shading coming out too dark. If anyone has any tips or tricks here, please let me know.

Very nice work on this so far!

About shadows... ditto what madcowchef said. And I always put my dropshadows on their own separate layers, that way you can lower the opacity if you want them lighter, or duplicate the layer if you want them darker. Also, that way, it doesn't affect other elements of your map. Eg: If you applied the dropshadow directly to the layer that your walls are on, you wouldn't be able to lower the shadow opacity without lowering it on the walls as well. And if you make a mistake, have to delete or redo them, you don't have to worry about starting all over again with your walls, if you, say, forgot to make a copy of the original walls. Been there, done that many times... finally learned: dropshadows ALWAYS go on their own separate layers! LOL!

[JPQuinn]

Thanks to both of you... I did apply the shadow directly to the stair layer (each step is it's on transparent layer with a shadow running across the same path to deepen the shadows). I'll have to play around a little with the shadows and see what I can come up with. Cheers!